Government
and Districts
Bali
is one of the 26 provinces of Indonesia. Within Bali there
are eight kabupatens or districts, which under the Dutch were
known as regencies. These are Badung,
Gianyar, Bangli,
Klungkung, Karangasem,
Buleleng, Jembrana,
Tabanan. There
are now nine districts since the addition of Kotamadya
Denpasar.
Each district is headed by a government official known as
a bupati. The districts are further subdivided into subdistricts
called Kecamatan which is headed by a camat, then come the
perbekels, the head of a desa (village) and finally, an enormous
number of banjars, the local divisions of a village.
Gianyar
Regency
The
district of Gianyar is the centre of Balinese culture, rich
in history and artifacts. Gianyar's history is arguably the
most fascinating in Bali. Leaving Denpasar on the way to Ubud,
the first village is Batubulan. Famous for its stone carvings,
most of the stone sculptures you see around Bali will almost
certainly come from Batubulan. These works are exhibited all
along the main road. Batubulan also specializes in the Barong
dance, which is performed daily here. The dance symbolizes
the never-ending battle between good and bad.
Just
after Batubulan, Celuk and nearby Singapadu are the centres
for the Balinese goldsmiths and silversmiths. The jewelry
is exported worldwide. After Celuk the main road heads to
Sukawati, which is famous for its art market (pasar seni).
Set in a two-floor building, the market sells everything from
statues to dance costumes, all at reasonable prices. At night
this market is closed, but a night market provides a good
selection of Indonesian food. Sukawati village is also a centre
for the manual production of the wind chimes you find all
over the island.
Further
along the road towards Ubud is the village of Mas. Famous
for woodcarving, Mas offers a myriad of wooden items. The
road through it is lined with craft shops and you are welcome
to drop in and see the carvers at work. The Tilem Nyana art
shop exhibits the work of Ida Bagus Nyana, one of the great
carvers of the thirties.
After
Mas, you enter the area of Ubud. Ubud is recognized as the
cultural centre of Bali. It is where the image of Bali as
a land of artists was created. A former principality, it has
several palaces and Brahmin mansions, as well as beautiful
houses built in the Gianyar architectural style. The modern
Balinese art movement began here when artists first began
to abandon purely religious and court scenes for scenes of
everyday life. Ubud is home to many respected local and western
artists.
The cultural image of Ubud is paramount to the people as it
is home to the best art museum in the country. The Puri Lukisan,
a Museum of Fine Arts established in the 1950's, displays
art from the 1930's and 1950's, as well as fine examples of
modern Balinese art.
The Neka Museum has a diverse and interesting collection of
mainly modern art. It also includes an excellent and varied
display of work by western artists who have resided in Ubud
throughout the years.
Ubud
is an ideal place to see Balinese dance. Legong, Ramayana,
Baris, Kecak, and the Fire Dance, are performed nightly in
or around the Ubud area. Ubud gives you the opportunity to
see the real Bali. It is a place for leisurely strolls through
rice paddies, lush forest, breathtaking gorges, and deserted
swimming holes, all within walking distance from the centre
of Ubud. You must visit the Monkey Forest - walk along Monkey
Forest Road from Ubud, down into a dense forest where you
will find a bunch of happy monkeys waiting for passing tourists.
A word of warning - the monkeys are happy but just a little
naughty, so hold on to your cameras!
Ubud market has kept much of its traditional charm, with squatting
Balinese sellers haggling loudly among spices and vegetables.
The market also sells handicrafts, many made in the neighbouring
villages of Pengosekan, Tegalalang Payangan and Peliatan.
Gianyar
has some of the most important archeological sites. The majority
are located in the Pejeng are a 4 km from Ubud. It is home
to one of South East Asia's oldest artifacts, a huge kettledrum
known as the Moon of Pejeng, a relic from the Bronze Age originating
from Dongson, Vietnam, and a nearby archeological museum.
The village also has two ancient temples, the Pura Pusering
Jagat and Pura Kebo Edan.
The road to Pejeng and Gianyar is the site of the Goa Gajah.
The Elephant Cave is carved into the rock face and reached
by a flight of steps. It probably dates back to the 9-12th
centuries and shows elements of both Hindu and Buddhist use.
A kilometre from Goa Gajah is Yeh Pulu. After a short walk
through rice paddies you will arrive at an ancient rock carving
dating from the 14th century. The carving depicts various
scenes of everyday life and the figures of the elephant headed
Ganesh indicate a close relationship between the two sites.
Still within the district of Gianyar in the central mountains
across from Trunyan is the small settlement of Tirta, with
its popular hot springs. The springs bubble out and are captured
in bathing pools. The water is soothingly hot and is reputed
to have powerful healing powers.
Badung,
Denpasar, Gianyar,
Bangli, Klungkung,
Karangasem, Buleleng,
Jembrana, Tabanan
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