Government
and Districts
Bali
is one of the 26 provinces of Indonesia. Within Bali there
are eight kabupatens or districts, which under the Dutch were
known as regencies. These are Badung,
Gianyar, Bangli,
Klungkung, Karangasem,
Buleleng, Jembrana,
Tabanan. There
are now nine districts since the addition of Kotamadya
Denpasar.
Each district is headed by a government official known as
a bupati. The districts are further subdivided into subdistricts
called Kecamatan which is headed by a camat, then come the
perbekels, the head of a desa (village) and finally, an enormous
number of banjars, the local divisions of a village.
Bangli
Regency
The
regency of Bangli covers two distinct geographical areas;
the volcanic uplands of the Batur and Kintamani area, stretching
down towards the sea near Tianyar and Tejakula, and the upper
part of the rice growing area of southern Bali, overlooking
Gianyar and Klungkung.
Your discovery of Bangli regency starts here with the sidan
rice terraces, gently rising to a beautiful view over Bukit
Samprangan. The road then climbs towards Bangli through Taman
Bali.
This
southern rice-growing area, although containing no specific
tourist attractions, is still one of the most enchanting areas
on Bali, especially if one walks away from the main roads
to discover the villages at first hand. You will find all
the magical charm of the island-clusters of shrines in the
midst of paddy fields, brick entrances along village streets,
and pule and giant Banyan trees towering above you.
Geographically,
Bangli is home to the mountain lakes and water sources that
make Bali so fertile. Numerous villages are scattered across
a landscape of rice terraces, lush valleys and forests. This
mountainous region is a strikingly different site of Bali
Aga traditional communities. Mount Batur itself is actually
just a small volcano, but its setting is in the heart of a
huge crater 14-km in diameter. Adjacent to the volcano is
the large crescent-shaped Batur lake, all surrounded by the
high walls of the crater rim. As the road rises steadily from
Bangli or Tampaksiring, nothing in the surrounding grey landscape
of bushes and garden plots suggest the presence of a volcano.
But over one more small ridge a dizzying view awaits the eyes,
encompassing the crater and beyond. From Panelokan, the main
road runs right round the rim towards Kintamani, the panorama
shifting as you circle around the crater.
The
sheer size of the crater conjures up images of the massive
eruption of the original Mount Batur that occurred tens of
thousands of years ago. The volcano is still active today
as Balinese all over the island who still remember the great
eruption of 1917 will testify. It claimed thousands of lives
and destroyed hundreds of temples. Old people might tell you
this was "the year when the world shook". Other
eruptions have taken place since, forcing the local population
to be relocated, along with several of their temples, such
as Pura Ulun Danau. Initially inside the huge crater, this
temple has been relocated to the top of the ridge overlooking
it. Here it now offers an impressive view of Mount Batur.
For
a complete panoramic view, you can drive half the circumference
of the crater along its upper rim. The highest point is Bukit
Penulisan. Here, one of the most ancient of Bali's temples
contains the remains of carvings from the earliest Buddhist
period. From Penulisan the road continues towards Buleleng
and Kubutambahan.
One very interesting excursion in Batur is the climb down
the inside of the crater from Panelokan to Kedisan. You can
then drive around the smaller Mount Batur, through Songan.
From Toya Bungkah, boats cross the lake to a Bali Aga village
called Trunyan. This place is notorious for its mortuary traditions.
Instead of cremating the dead, as Balinese do throughout most
of the island, the Trunyan community leave the bodies to decompose
naturally in a special cemetery.
There are also hot springs and lodging in Toya Bungkah. From
Songan there is a beautiful trek to Tianyar to the north coast
of the island. The adventurous traveler may even wish to climb
Mount Batur itself.
The
most interesting monument in Bangli, perhaps in the whole
of Bali, is the Pura Kehen temple, just to the north of the
town. As the state temple of the Bangli kingdom, Pura Kehen
occupies the site of an earlier temple, which dates back to
the 9th century. It owes much of its appeal to its unique
ambience, set majestically on a number of levels against the
background of a hill forest, with large trees shading the
shrines and gates of its courtyards.
A flight of 38 stairs leads to the meru-shaped gate between
rows of wayang statues. Overlooking the gate is the threatening
head of Kala, guardian of the netherworld. There is a magnificent
shrine with eleven roofs dedicated to the god of fire, the
resident temple god.
Penglipuran, two kilometres from Pura Kehen, is a small village
restored by the local government to represent a typical Balinese
village.
Badung,
Denpasar, Gianyar,
Bangli, Klungkung,
Karangasem, Buleleng,
Jembrana,
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