Food
As
much as Bali is famous for its offerings-the food presented
to the gods-it is not reputed for its cuisine. And the gourmet's
delights, which do exist, are too often hidden from the eye.
As throughout most of Asia, the staple food in Bali is white
rice, sometimes mixed up with cassava (nasi sela). People
now mainly consume new rice, introduced during the agricultural
revolution of the 70s, but, if given the choice, they still
prefer the beras Bali or Balinese rice. Red rice (beras barak)
is also used in some preparations while black rice (ketan
injin) and sticky rice is favoured for Balinese sweets.
The
coconut is an extremely important ingredient which produces
coconut milk (santan), grated coconut (nyuh kikih), coconut
palm sugar (gula aren), and coconut vinegar (cuka nyuh). Tuak,
an alcoholic drink, is made either from the flowers of the
coconut or the jaka palm tree (tuak jaka), from which the
Balinese also extract most of their sugar.
Vegetables grow in the wild in the fertile volcanic soil of
the island, on the small plot of land that most rural Balinese
have at the back of their houses (teba). The main ones are
the kangkung (water spinach leaf), daun sawi (cassava leaf),
sela (cassava tubercle),
bayem (spinach), keladi (taro), and a variety of beans. Foreign
vegetables, introduced in the Dutch times, also regularly
find their way to the Balinese table, including cabbage and
carrot from Europe and maize (jagung), tomato, potato and
carrots from the Americas.
The
every day meal (ajengan) of the Balinese is quite simple;
it consists of plain rice, one or two dishes of vegetables
and a piece of dry fish or meat, served with some grated coconut,
peanuts and a combination of base (spices), mainly turmeric
and chili. The food is cooked only once, in the early morning,
and is eaten individually three times a day, early in the
morning, at 11 a.m. and around sunset.
Eating
together is endowed with religious, rather than merely "social"
significance. In the typical communal megibung feast, the
guests sit in circles of eight people around a tall mound
of rice placed on a small round table, the dulang, and surrounded
by other dishes. The sitting arrangement symbolizes the eight
directions of the rose of the wind with their corresponding
Gods, while the mound of rice is a symbol of the cosmic mountain,
Mahameru. The whole is a representation of the cosmic Padma
or Lotus representing both Oneness and Multiple Infinite.
The
etiquette of megibung is no less complex than it's religious
meaning. The nobility, satria and brahmanas in particular,
should sit on the high ground of a verandah, and the other
groups sit in places corresponding to their status. Males
are also separated from females. These rules have considerably
softened in the last fifty years, though and now take into
account power, wealth and prestige. The serving is done by
a parent or servant, who should sit cross-legged on the ground
while performing his/her function.
At
the end of the feast, there is always a lot of sate and rice
left over. Some guests may bring it home for their own consumption.
Caste and prestige are always taken into account. It would
be not only improper, but also impure, for a Brahmana or a
Satria to consume a Sudra's left over.
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