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Garden of the Gods

Tropical bounty n the shadow of volcanoes: geography, climate and cultivation.

Bali's landscape is characterized by abundance: thousands of verdant rice fields, graceful coconut palms and a myriad of tropical fruit trees, coffee plantations and even vineyards make up the cultivated areas. On the slopes of the mountains, lush tangles of vines and creepers link huge trees, many dripping with orchids and ferns. It is not hard to understand why the island is often described as "the morning of the world", "island of the gods", and the enchanted paradise".

Lying between 8 and 9 degrees south of the equator Bali is only 89 miles east to west and 50 miles north to south. Its extraordinary richness is the result of a combination of factors. The island, and most of Indonesia, lies above the join of two of the earth's seven tectonic plates, and the towering volcanoes that dominate the landscape are responsible for much of Bali's fertility. Occasional eruptions, while potentially destructive, paradoxically increase fertility as they scatter rich ash and debris over the soil.

The tall mountains (Gunung Agung is 10,308 feet and neighboring Gunung Batur 5,633 feet) help generate heavy downpours of rain, which collects in a number of springs and lakes. The water flowing down the mountain slopes creates rivers that carved deep ravines as they make their way down to the sea.

Bali experiences two seasons, a hot wet season from November to March, and a cooler dry season from April to October. Long periods of sunshine and adequate rainfall create a monsoon forest (as opposed to rainforest, which grows in tropical regions without dry season). Natural vegetation, however, covers only about quarter of Bali (mainly in the west). The rest of the countryside has been extensively modified through cultivation.

The Balinese eat only very small amounts of meat, poultry of fish. Rice is the centerpiece of every meal, accompanied by a variety of vegetables, spicy condiments of sambals, crunchy extras such as peanuts, crisp-fried shallots, fried tempe (a fermented soy bean cake) or one of dozens of types of crisp wafer (krupuk). Although rice is the staple, certain other starchy foods such as cassava, sweet potatoes and corn are also eaten, sometimes mixed with rice, not just as an economy measure (they cost less) but because they provide a variation of flavor.

Many of the leafy greens enjoyed by the Balinese are gathered wild, such as the young shoots of trees found in the family compound (starfruit is one favorite). Of young fern tips and other edible greens found along the lanes or edges of the paddy fields. Immature fruits like the jackfruit and papaya are also used as vegetables. The Balinese cook use mature coconut almost daily, grafting it to add to vegetables, frying it with seasonings to make a condiment, or squeezing the grated flesh with water to make coconut milk for sauces that accompany both sweet and savory dishes.

Although the seas surrounding the island are rich in fish, the Balinese, even those living near the coast, eat surprisingly little seafood. Mountains are regarded as the abode of the gods and therefore holy, while the lowest place of all - the sea - is said to be the haunt of evil spirits and place of mysterious power. On a more pragmatic level, the coastline of Bali is dangerous for boats and possesses few natural harbors.

The majority of the fish caught are a type of sardine, tuna and mackerel. Fresh fish is available in coastal markets and the capital, Denpasar but owing to the limited availability of refrigeration, other markets sell these fish either preserved in brine or dried and salted, like ikan teri, a popular anchovy. Sea turtles have long been regarded as a special food and are eaten on festive occasions along the coast and in the south of Bali.

A beautiful tan-colored cow with a white rear end that makes it look as if it has sat in talcum powder is being successfully raised in Bali, although beef itself is seldom eaten by the Balinese.

Pork is the favorite eat and appears on most festive occasions. Duck is also featured frequently on Balinese festival menus, usually stuffed with spices and steamed before being roasted on charcoal or minced to make satay.

The Balinese eat creatures that not everyone would consider candidates for the table, including dragonflies, small eels, frogs, crickets, flying foxes and certain types of larvae. Visitors are advised to dismiss any preconceptions and sample whatever is offered.

Copyright by The Food of Bali, Authentic Recipes from the Island of the Gods

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