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The exorcism of evil

Ceremonies for the removal of pacification of evil spirits, Bhuta Yadnya, play an important part in the Balinese spectrum of ritual. A great island-wide exorcism takes place on the eve of the Balinese Saka (lunar) year, the new moon of the ninth month, known as Tilem Kesanga.

A bustle of activities starts several day in advance, and great Melasti procession are held to escort the family and village pratimas to the sea, a nearby spring or river, for a spiritual cleansing. The wooden statues which usually reside in the inner temple, and the great Barong, Rangda, and Barong Landugn masks which protect the village from evil through their magic powers, and decorated with flowers and escorted in long colorful processions, shielded by brightly colored umbrellas. Melasti is a colourful spectacle, and in the last few days before this particular new moon the roads are packed around Sanur and Kuta especially, and it seems as if the entire island of Bali is headed in the same direction. Upon arrival the procession disbands, offerings are presented, and after the brief prayer session holy water is distributed.

On the days leading up to Tilem Kesanga, the men of each village banjar have been busy constructing a pantheon of ogoh-ogoh monsters which will be let loose upon the last eve of the year and escorted around the vicinity in noisy processions that would strike tear in the hearts of the most dreadful evil spirits. The day begins with the placements of caru, demon-bait at the main crossroads and potentially haunted places within the village. This is a complex offering including raw blood and even animal sacrifices, placed with careful attention to symbolic colors and directions to ensure that the entire village will be cleaned of evil. The priests conduct their ritual, then the offerings are bundled up and buried or thrown in the nearest river or sea.

By dusk every family compound has been cleaned of devils by placement of miniature caru offerings splashed with arak and brem, and incense at every strategic point the village kul-kul alarms begin to beat with resounding regularity, and the monsters take to the streets, escorted by wild bands of youth bearing flaming torches and beating noisy gongs. The monstrous ogoh-ogoh are of every shape and size one could imagine. Giant dinosaurs, ugly fanged monsters, winged lions… the repertoire is amazing, and some have flashing lights in their eyes, animated private parts, even recorded roars that add to the general din and chaos. Around and around the go, in fearsome procession, till the early hours of the morning when they return to their villages to be torn apart and burnt.

The morning of nyepi, bali's Saka New Year. Dawns on a silent world. A curfew lies over the entire island. Nyepi means silent, empty, and for one whole day the streets are deserted. Nobody is allowed to leave their compound, and people are not supposed to light fires, smoke or cook. If any evil spirits have survived the pervious night's wild events, they will thus be beguiled into thinking the island is deserted, and take flight. No lights may be used in the evening, for an entire night the island lies in darkness.

During the day of Nyepi no vehicles are allowed on the roads, not even tours buses, the only concession made to tourism being specially licensed transportation for transfer to and from the airport servicing international departure and arrivals. Hotels ask their guests to respect the local customs and remain within the grounds, and some provide special programs.

Other bhuta yadnya ritual take place at odd times during the year, in purification or protection from disease, illness and spiritual uncleanness. A regular ceremony take place each fifteen days at Kajeng Keliwon, a day considered to be particularly susceptible to evil, within each family home. In some villages the giant Barong Landung take to the streets and perform. These tall puppets are about three meters in height, and the wearer looks through peepholes in the stomach. Three is a black male named Jero Gede, his wife Jero Luh, who has a startling white face, and sometimes they area accompanied by a couple of tall and clumsy children. In their role as devil exorcisors they make regular appearances, but they are supposed to be very temperamental, and on days when they refuse an outing no man can budge them.

Evil spirits, multiple and horrific in form, haunt the cemeteries and crossroads. Witchcraft is practised by the leyaks, evil creatures with the ability to transform themselves into animal form.

Whereas black magic is the realm of human beings, evil spirits are a personification of negative influence known as bhutas, and kalas, almost all ceremonies involve the placation of these with the placement of little offerings on the ground, sprinkled with rice wine or palm liquor. On importan occasions when the equilibrium of forces seems to be out of balance the caru offerings are ruquired.

Exorcism of witches and devils is often carried out through the medium of drama. The calonarang performance is devoted to this purpose, involving both the powerful Barong and Rangda masks. This is an enactment of an ancient tale from East Java about the widow Rangda who could not find a suitor for her daughter. She challenges the evil spirits and witches of the village to combat, and the story climaxes in a struggle of power as she overcomes the demons. In this role the evil Rangda does the village a service through the use of her black powers. A caru offering is needed to hold this performance, which is usually held in connection with the dedication of a new shrine of temple.

Wayang Kulit shadow puppet theatre is some times held for a similar purpose, during which the dalang puppeteer challenges village witches to a duel of powers, ordering them to leave and cease their evil trickery. Only particularly powerful dalangs will give this type of performance.

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